tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20142279026773988052024-03-05T04:54:12.557+00:00JDS's Reprap blogA newbies Reprap blog.JoeDaStuddhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14851083350058257771noreply@blogger.comBlogger52125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2014227902677398805.post-14127366095972690042014-03-26T17:30:00.000+00:002014-03-26T17:30:01.954+00:00Prusa i3 Y axis length for box version<h3>
The issue </h3>
I got to the point in my build when its time to attach the Y axis to the frame and noticed something very off between the <a href="http://78.47.92.212/i3_documentation_pics/">guide</a> and my build.<br />
<br />
My Y axis was a fair bit shorter then the one shown in the guide, which meant if I had the motor at the back, as per the guide, I would lose a fair amount of print area.<br />
<br />
<h3>
Why </h3>
Looking around the <a href="http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?151,325486">forums</a> I noticed I wasn't the only one with the issue and it was caused by a difference between the official <a href="https://github.com/josefprusa/Prusa3">github</a> and the <a href="http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_i3_Build_Manual">wiki</a>.<br />
The wiki stating 370mm smooth rods with threaded rod to match and the github stating 405mm smooth rods and threaded rod to match.<br />
<br />
The difference (35mm) is roughly the size of the mounted Y axis motor and the print area lost if mounted at the back.<br />
<br />
<h3>
Semi-fix </h3>
Move the motor to the front, remove the washer and nut from the idler side and move the belt tensioner on the bed plate.<br />
Moving the motor to the front gains a few cm's, removing the extra bolt and washer gains roughly 1 cm and moving the belt tensioner should regain the last few cm/mm.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://johnridley.blogspot.co.uk/2013/10/building-prusa-i3-printer-y-axis.html">Dragonfly DIY</a>'s blog outlines the changes.<br />
<br />
Its still not ideal however as its its re-drilling the print bed wood, removes the supporting washer holding the Y axis to the frame, doesn't look as clean (you have wires going from the very front to the back along the Y axis) and leaves little room for error/tweaking.<br />
<br />
As I've already got the correct length threaded and smooth rod on hand from my original Prusa I will order some more GT2 belt (2m so I have some spare) and will re-build the Y axis later.<br />
For the time being however 150x200x200 (mm of course) should be enough to allow me print some basic things to improve my setup (RAMPS mount, RasPi mount, auto bed levelling parts and spool holder)JoeDaStuddhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14851083350058257771noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2014227902677398805.post-30906630945752724712014-03-25T12:45:00.000+00:002014-03-25T12:45:00.146+00:00Prusa i1 to i3 upgrade - Build day 4<span style="font-size: x-small;">Real date 16/03/2014 </span><br />
As with Day 3 I was feeling terrible, so didn't spend as much time as I had planned (was aiming to be printing Saturday night).<br />
<br />
<br />
As previously mentioned I'm following this <a href="http://78.47.92.212/i3_documentation_pics/">guide</a> and will only be documenting things I have trouble with or do which the guide doesn't state.<br />
<br />
<h3>
Z Axis</h3>
The motor and Z axis holders have 3 holes on one side and only 2 one the other.<br />
Do<b> not</b> drill the blanked side out.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtDhM0qrmjUoEWeuFLipSkOeeSBZPeumswmRmaoBphEBzlvVHaG6AoJ_mYVBLTr6l_nqtxZSMzmjJ3Q7SprDiHbbKZUjGZWn4EoMHaRyYEGuo0hhXL-QVEGKf4F2Dkik6gNn16IKc3Exiv/s1600/IMG_20140319_171516712.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtDhM0qrmjUoEWeuFLipSkOeeSBZPeumswmRmaoBphEBzlvVHaG6AoJ_mYVBLTr6l_nqtxZSMzmjJ3Q7SprDiHbbKZUjGZWn4EoMHaRyYEGuo0hhXL-QVEGKf4F2Dkik6gNn16IKc3Exiv/s1600/IMG_20140319_171516712.png" height="272" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
As you can see adding a screw in into the frame at that position wouldn't make sense.<br />
I suspect the generation script doesn't fully remove the extra screw hole which is used on another variant.<br />
<br />
Once you have the motor holder and top rod holder in place, remove the screws from the top piece.<br />
This isn't show or said in the guide, but you'll need to be able to add the X axis to the frame.<br />
<br />
<br />
<h3>
X axis</h3>
The assembly is one of the easiest parts, however getting the Z axis rod to move smoothly throught the nut is a little tricky.<br />
In the end I used a 6mm drill be to enlarge the hole, this means the 5mm threaded rod doesn't snag or attach to anything but the washer.<br />
I wouldn't go any larger then 6mm as the M5 nut would run the risk of slipping out.<br />
<br />
Note I reused one of the 608zz bearings for the X axis and the belt looks like its not going to slip. However the is a gap so I will be on my list of parts to order.<br />
<br />
<br />
<h3>
Extruder</h3>
I got a new extruder a freebie from 3DPrinterPunk because they forgot to send me the Y corners.<br />
Its a Herringbone Greg's accessable extuder.<br />
The assembly is pretty much the same as Wades only with less parts which is always nice.<br />
<br />
The thing to note is the extruder uses a 17mm piece to hold the idler bearing in place as opposed a 20mm piece used in my old Wade.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRbg_18P36zDgpbf0J3vG0NkorHUDO-Ibkzj8xE91ngtjjZ88Wxm-P5EixdlmvWQUf8Q8XG4u6uIYj1PrR5fxTpJZnPEb6kj35d_gJ0cIdrWBitx4kwPUeau6e_oSVGqsw_X9MOCIzRriL/s1600/IMG_20140319_171653687.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRbg_18P36zDgpbf0J3vG0NkorHUDO-Ibkzj8xE91ngtjjZ88Wxm-P5EixdlmvWQUf8Q8XG4u6uIYj1PrR5fxTpJZnPEb6kj35d_gJ0cIdrWBitx4kwPUeau6e_oSVGqsw_X9MOCIzRriL/s1600/IMG_20140319_171653687.png" height="280" width="320" /></a></div>
Its worth noting with the compact X carriage and this extuder you can't double the nut at this side as the clearance is small and the second nut will catch on the X carriage.<br />
<br />
<br />
<h3>
End of Day 4</h3>
Getting the belts right on the X carriage took a while as did getting the Z axis threaded rod moving smoothly (I started with a 3mm drill bit and worked upto 6mm).<br />
I've not documented it, however about 1 hour of the build time was actually disassembling my old Prusa as I needed the bearings for the extruder (I used the extruder bearings for the X and Y axis).<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5uXPc2ZJnQM95zWb1rrKZT7gKp5hMAGkofdrnjT1tZxmkmWZuVGYD3ToQ-nYw1vK86D3no3biJ07GVt6MQXXIcNkutge0oO9cA3RjtImuH86JQoa18rSiA1evo5JCdT8QzU9jdLTkWHb5/s1600/IMG_20140316_133045391.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5uXPc2ZJnQM95zWb1rrKZT7gKp5hMAGkofdrnjT1tZxmkmWZuVGYD3ToQ-nYw1vK86D3no3biJ07GVt6MQXXIcNkutge0oO9cA3RjtImuH86JQoa18rSiA1evo5JCdT8QzU9jdLTkWHb5/s1600/IMG_20140316_133045391.png" height="400" width="325" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Prusa i1 frame vs Prusa i3 frame</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
Days build time: ~2 hour<br />
Total build time: ~6 hours<br />
<br />JoeDaStuddhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14851083350058257771noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2014227902677398805.post-28759667484991574102014-03-19T17:30:00.000+00:002014-03-20T11:42:40.898+00:00Prusa i1 to i3 upgrade - Build day 3I'm a bit backlogged on my posts as I got a horrible cold the day after build day 2 (Friday) which has only just started to fade. I did bits and pieces but never spent any real time.<br />
<br />
As previously mentioned I'm following this <a href="http://78.47.92.212/i3_documentation_pics/">guide</a> and will only be documenting things I have trouble with or do which the guide doesn't state.<br />
<h3>
Print bed - Smooth rod distance</h3>
It all looked very straight forward until it came to check it moved smoothly, as attaching the bed involves drilling and screws it moved slightly.<br />
After a few attempts at tweaking the width to get it moving smoothly I decided to put down the spanners and work out the optimal distance myself.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb0LnheYh4O_FHnqb8m78qC06SHhxqJcKmRM5x-BXFmOyFZJN-JQEMlTKRBTZoj6qI6YHttp2gZpBVkObEN1mEhbUnRg9ATrY_MOx4S3vhmYeWCnBpBFBUw4yNXUgIWYZS2gzjspIerZxv/s1600/printbed1.png" height="400" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="400" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some amazing photoshop skill</td></tr>
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Add the blue lengths<br />
Add the green lengths then half them (this gives you the center of the plastic part which should be the center of the bearing).<br />
Add the result of the above values then take this away from the yellow/orange value.<br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">yellow - ((blue + blue) + ((green + green)/2))</span><br />
This gives you the distance between the center of the top and bottom bearings. To get the gap between the smooth rods just minus the width of a smooth rod.<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDvVv8Hcvhywtyj-GXec_25XNWiFODDA5NXDIa8BtaGhNOsOOfmPFmPl9yyS7WZABtG2lW90s6ch7Z1mz_ifodA0skow5609vh-RPuT6ChJDbdTt2Bl2qsTsDH7hbv6LjCdIRJSHO7FBdh/s1600/printbed2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDvVv8Hcvhywtyj-GXec_25XNWiFODDA5NXDIa8BtaGhNOsOOfmPFmPl9yyS7WZABtG2lW90s6ch7Z1mz_ifodA0skow5609vh-RPuT6ChJDbdTt2Bl2qsTsDH7hbv6LjCdIRJSHO7FBdh/s1600/printbed2.png" height="200" width="200" /></a> </div>
<br />
Measure the width of a Y corner piece. From this value minus the width of the smooth rod.<br />
<br />
Take this value from the distance calculated from the printbed.<br />
This is the width between each corner piece.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqfF_fJSBbX_Amp1FWrWH-NHsPZ8AxboHofO91KW98Mk2Dj6R_ZbTw6W5NaCYZeferDjy0lwjVbyAVI4Fv8g7zYJ3Q_RFPZ45Y49QC1g74dZVeyNZlskkPOcZ8nO6IHYWbYAyQ8JeBdR1A/s1600/printbed3.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqfF_fJSBbX_Amp1FWrWH-NHsPZ8AxboHofO91KW98Mk2Dj6R_ZbTw6W5NaCYZeferDjy0lwjVbyAVI4Fv8g7zYJ3Q_RFPZ45Y49QC1g74dZVeyNZlskkPOcZ8nO6IHYWbYAyQ8JeBdR1A/s1600/printbed3.png" height="400" width="80" /></a></div>
<h3>
</h3>
<h3>
Belt holder</h3>
Following the guide its pretty straight forward however if your belt holder is loose and doesn't hold the belt when its tight the guide recommends<i> "</i>shim it with an M3 washer or a piece of card".<br />
Which in simple turns means jam small washer(s) or hard peice(s) of card under the belt until it doesn't slip.<br />
Like so <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdnOKL28mwms4IZCBOBVRN4VWzI9sKOACpk-2Ft5GvTpUBU0ZJRjT0MhNhWzXB3ONHrFHhlsNoZj3ZIji6UAVlaSoz80nNKc4PqV4p0GWPKVnFVhdAcmtbZsE5y9HabIp5thVFpL4OBWhm/s1600/IMG_20140316_241128053.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdnOKL28mwms4IZCBOBVRN4VWzI9sKOACpk-2Ft5GvTpUBU0ZJRjT0MhNhWzXB3ONHrFHhlsNoZj3ZIji6UAVlaSoz80nNKc4PqV4p0GWPKVnFVhdAcmtbZsE5y9HabIp5thVFpL4OBWhm/s1600/IMG_20140316_241128053.png" height="356" width="640" /></a></div>
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<h3>
End of Day 3</h3>
The rugby six nations grand final (unlucky England, well played Ireland) was on and I felt very rough so this is all as I did on day three.<br />
<br />
Days build time: ~1 hour*<br />
Total build time: ~4 hours<br />
<br />
I did the work between matches and during half time so could have been 1h30m or 45m as I wasn't paying much attention. JoeDaStuddhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14851083350058257771noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2014227902677398805.post-26434535919516816212014-03-13T12:30:00.000+00:002014-03-19T10:55:17.636+00:00Prusa i1 to i3 upgrade - Build day 2Due to the issue with missing plastic parts I had a day break between build days.<br />
<br />
True to my jump to section I like the look of style instead of attaching the last piece of wood to the frame I jumped to the Y axis.<br />
<br />
As previously mentioned I'm following this <a href="http://78.47.92.212/i3_documentation_pics/">guide</a> and will only be documenting things I have trouble with or do which the guide doesn't state.<br />
<br />
<h3>
Y Axis corner blocks - aka the missing Arduino box</h3>
The assembly is pretty straight forward, however the guide states to use the Arduino box and gives no dimensions of it.<br />
As my Arduino's are clones (much cheaper and the same functionality) they didn't come in the official box and the box they did come in has long been binned.<br />
<br />
I checked around and according to the official RepRap forums its purely used as a spacer to ensure the smooth rods are level. So referrencing the image I looked around for something similar size and found a Raspberry Pi box and used it.<br />
I measured the box and it was slightly (~0.1m) over 12cm in width.<br />
<br />
I found a quick way to ensure booth sides are the same width is to attach a M8 bolt (or piece of M8 threaded rod) through one side and attach a nut.<br />
The alignment both using the same box (or callipers). <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfgjHECmnBESgHE1lj0HQGPtt3ArNzHiS_BE-DV9_4stGY1qKcglZEAQezra_OlvWT2WEP-OA4ofX8d6D4hf40qs4TVIy2O0cfJlqPZua3xF2v1EO1Rtp76FlsAkgHOaUTWZe0JHCFnefU/s1600/IMG_20140312_203022325.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfgjHECmnBESgHE1lj0HQGPtt3ArNzHiS_BE-DV9_4stGY1qKcglZEAQezra_OlvWT2WEP-OA4ofX8d6D4hf40qs4TVIy2O0cfJlqPZua3xF2v1EO1Rtp76FlsAkgHOaUTWZe0JHCFnefU/s1600/IMG_20140312_203022325.png" height="173" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The picture is poor quality, but you can see the bolt on the left corner piece.<br />
As well the the Raspberry Pi box.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIq_LcyL8WH8LfGB5_TpzdPCOfXDzPddJ0gIznjf-PnlT39JEjOtJGtyU_2wZiAWHerqLlg3QDB44NIUOhvfXlEFwZ2j48dYE2R6plXd6ltnHiJXv-DwDUCN14tw4_FYAO4MG3L8b1dtaY/s1600/IMG_20140312_203052210.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIq_LcyL8WH8LfGB5_TpzdPCOfXDzPddJ0gIznjf-PnlT39JEjOtJGtyU_2wZiAWHerqLlg3QDB44NIUOhvfXlEFwZ2j48dYE2R6plXd6ltnHiJXv-DwDUCN14tw4_FYAO4MG3L8b1dtaY/s1600/IMG_20140312_203052210.png" height="400" width="341" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This shows the bolt a little better.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<h3>
Smooth rods</h3>
The smooth rods referenced in the guide for the Y axis are actually the shortest of the smooth rods.<br />
The guide is a little confusing as it references them as the long smooth rods.<br />
<br />
If you threaded rods are line mine, only slightly (5cm to 10cm) longer then the shortest smooth rods its best to have the corner pieces at the very ends of the threaded rod, otherwise you'll be adjusting there location until they are.<br />
Contracory to the guide I its easier to put the bearings on the smooth rods when you first insert them as they are clip fit pieces and are a pain to get out without messing up the alignment.<br />
<br />
<h3>
Y axis idler</h3>
The guide is using 624zz bearings while I had planed to reuse my 608zz bearings so I had to make slight adjustment.<br />
Below is the setup I'll be trying first. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRm5gZiEDW9AJBg-rn5aa2YoVXRjaB-Adp-E0hF0gQa_xc1yksBnyfHNDRXbo9BQ2B4NIltMChb2hlK00Xii5ImqPqIKpgX7PYPOewNFJ_tnaLfYsRi1OXzheRF7ZmQAI7CpFiJwl9G6-o/s1600/IMG_20140312_210416213.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRm5gZiEDW9AJBg-rn5aa2YoVXRjaB-Adp-E0hF0gQa_xc1yksBnyfHNDRXbo9BQ2B4NIltMChb2hlK00Xii5ImqPqIKpgX7PYPOewNFJ_tnaLfYsRi1OXzheRF7ZmQAI7CpFiJwl9G6-o/s1600/IMG_20140312_210416213.png" height="320" width="315" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Flash seemed to make the image clearer, but darker at the same time</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4PAZyKdrrTAOdKoEgZ_C4R3zrDFvjaQ_D1u5pTCxj8-I_UR99bQTJMrq118YbSLOrlkj7V-mQGBT0BSTDXOMcdXZ9BuJ2-AkaqW2uUhnNmrwK5b2bUo0Rw0O0I2WFOFgs1RFJ5-xAwlHm/s1600/IMG_20140312_210350815.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4PAZyKdrrTAOdKoEgZ_C4R3zrDFvjaQ_D1u5pTCxj8-I_UR99bQTJMrq118YbSLOrlkj7V-mQGBT0BSTDXOMcdXZ9BuJ2-AkaqW2uUhnNmrwK5b2bUo0Rw0O0I2WFOFgs1RFJ5-xAwlHm/s1600/IMG_20140312_210350815.png" height="281" width="320" /></a></div>
Its M8 bolt, washer, plastic, mudguard washer, 608zz bearing, mudguard washer, plastic, washer, two M8 bolts.<br />
As there isn't room for standard washers I used the two nuts to keep it in place while allowing the bearing to turn.<br />
<br />
<h3>
End of Day 2</h3>
<br />
At this point my niece had gone to bed and I didn't want to run the risk of waking her up by drilling so I called it a day.<br />
<br />
My desk/workbench is filling up, but the build is coming along nicely.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWBavwhlqoIAm8weUUYTBcxy8jQOm-Wlce4LV6kl10NuNR6PEglQwSuQiqcwd7ENIusAcRWCDolsEQt4XVGoKJ3LZeB1Pg1O8VwjCQWCp28_Tpnb5JzDs2J8w7R1-F299CwMKKtlWANMnp/s1600/IMG_20140312_210629709.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWBavwhlqoIAm8weUUYTBcxy8jQOm-Wlce4LV6kl10NuNR6PEglQwSuQiqcwd7ENIusAcRWCDolsEQt4XVGoKJ3LZeB1Pg1O8VwjCQWCp28_Tpnb5JzDs2J8w7R1-F299CwMKKtlWANMnp/s1600/IMG_20140312_210629709.png" height="328" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
If everything goes well and I don't get any hickups I should be ready to start printing this weekend.<br />
<br />
Days build time: ~1 hour<br />
Total build time: ~3 hoursJoeDaStuddhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14851083350058257771noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2014227902677398805.post-32027386300764688832014-03-12T18:00:00.000+00:002014-03-19T10:54:52.328+00:00Prusa i1 to i3 upgrade - Build day 1I'm not going to document ever step as most of them are pretty
straight forward or a case of doing the same thing on the opposite side
or again a different section.<br />
I followed this <a href="http://78.47.92.212/i3_documentation_pics/">visual</a> guide which is for the same version (box) and using a similar electronic setup.<br />
<br />
As I'm never one to completely follow instructions I skipped to the frame assembly first as it relies on the heavier tools and can be done independently of the other parts.<br />
I couldn't find my countersink so just used a ~10mm drill bit in its place.<br />
<br />
<h3>
The L sections </h3>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8HkH7Nadh66kA6fe0jwmwGpP1fWKhKhxNt5RmC0sx5fMio2EIvykm3yOo7MDngc00wAJMDAai4xrkskXO9nRZYBvey8eixwavPQ1w2lHgUeWWmKk2VepzMaa5mzT0pz9nZoQQqzmVXKXk/s1600/IMG_20140310_181959976.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8HkH7Nadh66kA6fe0jwmwGpP1fWKhKhxNt5RmC0sx5fMio2EIvykm3yOo7MDngc00wAJMDAai4xrkskXO9nRZYBvey8eixwavPQ1w2lHgUeWWmKk2VepzMaa5mzT0pz9nZoQQqzmVXKXk/s1600/IMG_20140310_181959976.png" height="400" width="240" /></a></div>
These are pretty simple as long as you use clamps to hold the pieces together.<br />
Before you clamp them and get them in position mark the half way point on the board as this will help get the middle screw in the center.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqiNK4upABA0bUh6Wk5A-zpsV0yQiZMUwgZZqfuOWTyTWx3zo4463UEYnxQ3sqljpIdicPgXGXXe15zadZVM-C43LOM-mEmPCz1EkxMM7hCzaDM6aMANnkOUTBT-U2VpPkLstVRdPQ-xYE/s1600/IMG_20140310_182748244.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqiNK4upABA0bUh6Wk5A-zpsV0yQiZMUwgZZqfuOWTyTWx3zo4463UEYnxQ3sqljpIdicPgXGXXe15zadZVM-C43LOM-mEmPCz1EkxMM7hCzaDM6aMANnkOUTBT-U2VpPkLstVRdPQ-xYE/s1600/IMG_20140310_182748244.png" height="191" width="320" /></a></div>
Offset the top and bottom screws by 2cm to 3cm.<br />
<br />
<h3>
The base</h3>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrg7iTR6MMWB2UunEJ_OmrY8b1Q8nKz8CYP7QGcRS5FYMsCDwY-VnlUyBEKWvEWjOVX_JZ_89uIcWxrYZgrc6c1SiKeoV1Z_k19MpvhR7aA2nb_uGGoI1rtfv9VAfkKZwWzaM4IYfNxS12/s1600/IMG_20140310_190610846.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrg7iTR6MMWB2UunEJ_OmrY8b1Q8nKz8CYP7QGcRS5FYMsCDwY-VnlUyBEKWvEWjOVX_JZ_89uIcWxrYZgrc6c1SiKeoV1Z_k19MpvhR7aA2nb_uGGoI1rtfv9VAfkKZwWzaM4IYfNxS12/s1600/IMG_20140310_190610846.png" height="348" width="640" /></a></div>
This is a little tricky as it requires a 3mm spacer and the new piece of wood has a habit of moving when you drill it.<br />
In hindsight I would highly recommend you use clamps.<br />
On the plus side 3mm filament is, well, 3mm so its ideal as a spacer for this job.<br />
Note the drill battery sitting on the spacer to keep it level.<br />
<br />
<h3>
End of day 1 </h3>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJzilERMX5CJnSE_yKX0pD0f_p9GBJLkm7ix1PcvXeNqMCt4CcR4vlzVXfoQX2MHaiv1Ov4xptcEETxCD_Gq6sDumO4HmpOW7pDVGbinVWcK3DaED31ND86-XSU3iAaU6xXU7f9WZANnyG/s1600/IMG_20140310_201254453.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJzilERMX5CJnSE_yKX0pD0f_p9GBJLkm7ix1PcvXeNqMCt4CcR4vlzVXfoQX2MHaiv1Ov4xptcEETxCD_Gq6sDumO4HmpOW7pDVGbinVWcK3DaED31ND86-XSU3iAaU6xXU7f9WZANnyG/s1600/IMG_20140310_201254453.png" height="385" width="400" /></a></div>
I forgot to charge the drill batteries prior to commencing the build so I ran out of battery for the last piece of wood (for the frame).<br />
As I'm missing plastic parts there is nothing I can do for the time being.<br />
<br />
Days build time: ~2 hours*<br />
Total build time: ~2 hours<br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">*Includes switching between 3 drill bits, sorting and arranging the parts.</span><br />
<br />
Just a side note the frame appears much larger then I was expecting. I'll take a photo of it and the Prusa i3 frame side by side once I add the last piece.JoeDaStuddhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14851083350058257771noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2014227902677398805.post-36907107278656615912014-03-12T17:30:00.000+00:002014-03-12T17:30:00.061+00:00Prusa i1 to i3 upgrade - The old boy<h3>
</h3>
Before I started to strip down my old Prusa I thought I'd take a few quick photos for reference and so show the wear/age of it.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3VuZXQDR8lQVYDoK9UIYE6HbOjHKAzkumWqciCOJ1IasO_11Lq7Aps2_cY4hEqI2q4CojvgHTapFio9_VyZlh95ZjFMl2Svwqfwl_PL-8LeQagVMjF5N7lJAhZlmWB61xNUnAWq6S5Zpc/s1600/IMG_20140310_173405480.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3VuZXQDR8lQVYDoK9UIYE6HbOjHKAzkumWqciCOJ1IasO_11Lq7Aps2_cY4hEqI2q4CojvgHTapFio9_VyZlh95ZjFMl2Svwqfwl_PL-8LeQagVMjF5N7lJAhZlmWB61xNUnAWq6S5Zpc/s1600/IMG_20140310_173405480.png" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yes its a mess</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The blue parts are replacement parts. The black stuff under the printer was an experiment I planning on trialling, but never got round to. Its high density foam designed for noise isolation, the idea was it would absorb some of the vibrations and reduce wobbly because of this.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ06cZcFRTht6R8nmINt9PfdCriU2PfUCUaxtmOMs8Wov7CxdA88qdWNhLjq_4HIny_Q50jdiQmanuCSbjtB7hj6G3ieFaxFfAKotGyYapRLRxCSzHnZqY0jCFYVDRoZJzHXlsNtZPbUgx/s1600/IMG_20140310_173429622.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ06cZcFRTht6R8nmINt9PfdCriU2PfUCUaxtmOMs8Wov7CxdA88qdWNhLjq_4HIny_Q50jdiQmanuCSbjtB7hj6G3ieFaxFfAKotGyYapRLRxCSzHnZqY0jCFYVDRoZJzHXlsNtZPbUgx/s1600/IMG_20140310_173429622.png" height="358" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />You can see the cracking near the washer which if adjusted or removed would likely cause it to break in two (like the endstop did).JoeDaStuddhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14851083350058257771noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2014227902677398805.post-63211978133649742652014-03-11T12:45:00.000+00:002014-03-11T12:45:00.819+00:00Prusa i1 to i3 upgrade - Parts arrivedAs I mentioned in my previous post (well previous real post) the plastic parts arrived on the 1st (01/03/2014) and the hardware was delayed. So between the two deliveries I've not been able to do too much in the way of the i3 upgrade.<br />
I'd cleaned a section of my room which I can dedicate to the printer and been frequenting the <a href="http://forums.reprap.org/">official forums</a> and Reddit sub forums (<a href="http://www.reddit.com/r/3dprinting">3D printing</a> and <a href="http://www.reddit.com/r/reprap">RepRap</a>) in order to get myself upto date with the latest advances (in RepRap terms) as well as any common issues.<br />
I also bit the bullet and ordered a SG90 micro servo for the Z probe upgrade I spoke about. I literally just picked the cheapest UK based seller who had good reviews and was selling the complete unit (arms and screws included) on eBay.<br />
<br />
<h3>
The Plastic Parts</h3>
I bought my plastic parts from 3DPrinterPunk for the reasons I outlined in my previous post (cheapest and the time and prints looked good).<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYormjp36JmkYI7yvgce6UPZ_0Bi5aL3vdFLSSKgUk0AjxdzFXFMQbz1R_Ip0kPWYIpHW6GAhaJ0x-2p1ioceJTLky3R0UX29Xi80fYAwZFW6Oq15MXK4dTvf1FoS3xyorjRNmMTwFjQlr/s1600/IMG_20140310_171912292.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYormjp36JmkYI7yvgce6UPZ_0Bi5aL3vdFLSSKgUk0AjxdzFXFMQbz1R_Ip0kPWYIpHW6GAhaJ0x-2p1ioceJTLky3R0UX29Xi80fYAwZFW6Oq15MXK4dTvf1FoS3xyorjRNmMTwFjQlr/s1600/IMG_20140310_171912292.png" height="393" width="640" /></a></div>
The parts came well packaged with lots of packing peanuts as well as free cable ties and filament (which as you can see in the photo has the temperature as well).<br />
<br />
Here's a photo of it all unpacked, please note the lm8uu's I added and didn't come with the plastic parts.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS7DDqsrI5rXBrepX5u6YTqNX3IY3vdpydhbQSkjuwNyhyklBo2IhDkexPS7A5rVpWyGhvoW_0Xw1KlmD0kOvBZCQAxRuNFRqQ_rZOUV0jzSp_eq4pgFqnO6fJ4kDLYQpM9ttvv8ll4cBQ/s1600/IMG_20140310_232802917.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS7DDqsrI5rXBrepX5u6YTqNX3IY3vdpydhbQSkjuwNyhyklBo2IhDkexPS7A5rVpWyGhvoW_0Xw1KlmD0kOvBZCQAxRuNFRqQ_rZOUV0jzSp_eq4pgFqnO6fJ4kDLYQpM9ttvv8ll4cBQ/s1600/IMG_20140310_232802917.png" height="508" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sorry about the picture quality I was stood in front of the lights</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Anyone with a keen eye will notice two things which don't match most printed part kits.<br />
<br />
Firstly the little square parts (there should be 10 showing in the photo but I was inspecting them), they are cable tie holders and the central hole allows you to attach it to the wood via a screw.<br />
<br />
Secondly there are 4 pieces missing. As its my first i3 build I didn't even look twice at the parts until I was using them in the build, at which point I noticed the missing parts (Y axis corners).<br />
<br />
3DPrinterPunk was great a great help, he emailed me a list of parts and helped identify the missing ones (from the above photo) and is sending me the parts along side a free ABS extruder as an apology. The email exchange all happened after 10pm at night and was all resolved in about half a dozen emails.<br />
That's some serious customer service and while the free extruder is a little much I'm not going to object.<br />
<br />
<h3>
Hardware</h3>
I ordered my hardware (wood, rods, fastenings, bearings and belt kit) from <a href="http://www.emakershop.com/Seller=801">Greg Colbourn</a> via <a href="http://www.emakershop.com/">eMakerShop</a>.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh99U8rZhbyInjSIUAaOvK8IbLhTbrIVkXsBqzRWj63dZHomb1Yw54SwE2ZC8cYx3CkTngh8it9Mg1UlpPulE5S8h932oK6QXJGmvfH1femijlnPOZXF-moAEBPVF-VTR9px7XRBvNDNIzP/s1600/IMG_20140310_172605152.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh99U8rZhbyInjSIUAaOvK8IbLhTbrIVkXsBqzRWj63dZHomb1Yw54SwE2ZC8cYx3CkTngh8it9Mg1UlpPulE5S8h932oK6QXJGmvfH1femijlnPOZXF-moAEBPVF-VTR9px7XRBvNDNIzP/s1600/IMG_20140310_172605152.png" height="268" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Freshly unpacked</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The parts came well packaged and all the fastenings were nicely labelled.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBnml__GKRopsMWlnD1dlpsrXn9bUx6bB4ayTkHGofLqAMl7uxEPcIDqlk55MWcAVUaS2wvClVFnmyA2IJxe4PsPPvCTya1jrMP4AkBa-ba_i2kKaKgfkcM-yxBARuB_at1XroYlA47kQE/s1600/IMG_20140310_172729039.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBnml__GKRopsMWlnD1dlpsrXn9bUx6bB4ayTkHGofLqAMl7uxEPcIDqlk55MWcAVUaS2wvClVFnmyA2IJxe4PsPPvCTya1jrMP4AkBa-ba_i2kKaKgfkcM-yxBARuB_at1XroYlA47kQE/s1600/IMG_20140310_172729039.png" height="358" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
So the build begins.JoeDaStuddhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14851083350058257771noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2014227902677398805.post-77637122392360340822014-03-09T17:30:00.000+00:002014-03-09T17:30:01.086+00:00Historic - Supplier Review: Think3dPrint3d - Endstops<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: red;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Please note this review is from my original build in 2011.</span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: red;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Some of the sellers no longer trade and where the seller is still trading the items will likely have changed.</span></span></div><a href="http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/think3dprint3d_gmail/"><span style="font-size: large;">Think3dPrint3d</span></a><br />
<br />
<b>3X Endstop RepRap Prusa Huxley, Sanguinolou RAMPS Gen 6 7, microswitch end stop</b><br />
<br />
<table border="1" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0"><tbody>
<tr><td><b>Price</b></td><td>£2.99</td><td rowspan="3"><br /></td><td><b>Unit Type</b></td><td>Pack of 3</td></tr>
<tr><td><b>Delivery cost</b></td><td>£0.75</td><td><b>Type</b></td><td>Std</td></tr>
<tr><td><b>Date Order</b></td><td>01/01/01</td><td><b>Date Received</b></td><td>01/01/01 </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
3 microswitches for use as end stops, nothing fancy just 3 microswitches well packaged and delivered promptly.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table border="1" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0"><tbody>
<tr><th width="300px">Pros</th><th width="300px">Cons</th></tr>
<tr><td style="color: #38761d;"><ul>
<li>Quick delivery</li>
<li>Does the job well</li>
<li>Good communication.</li>
</ul>
</td><td style="color: #990000;"><ul>
<li>More expensive then generic sellers</li>
</ul>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Would I buy endstops from Think3dPrint3d again?<br />
<br />
No<br />
<br />
Think3dPrint3d are a great supplier however looking around the microswitches used on the RepRap are just standard microswitches (I thought they were something special) and for that reason I can pick them up much cheaper from generic sellers.JoeDaStuddhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14851083350058257771noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2014227902677398805.post-42832285174679703512014-03-09T13:00:00.000+00:002014-03-11T07:46:41.639+00:00Historic - Supplier Review: snipermand - Stepper drivers<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: red;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Please note this review is from my original build in 2011.</span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: red;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Some of the sellers no longer trade and where the seller is still trading the items will likely have changed.</span></span></div>
<a href="http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/snipermand/"><span style="font-size: large;">Snipermand</span></a><br />
<br />
<b>Pololu/StepStick Stepper Motor Driver (RepRap RAMPS/Sanguinololu)</b><br />
<br />
<table border="1" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0"><tbody>
<tr><td><b>Price</b></td><td>£7.72</td><td rowspan="3"><br /></td><td><b>Unit Type</b></td><td>Each</td></tr>
<tr><td><b>Delivery cost</b></td><td>£1.29</td><td><b>Type</b></td><td>Economy Int'l Shipping</td></tr>
<tr><td><b>Date Order</b></td><td><span class="g-v33"></span><span class="g-v33">16/11/11</span></td><td><b>Date Received</b></td><td>23/11/11 </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
Product Review<br />
<br />
<br />
<table border="1" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0"><tbody>
<tr><th width="300px">Pros</th><th width="300px">Cons</th></tr>
<tr><td style="color: #38761d;"><ul>
<li>Good heatsink</li>
<li>Good communication/support</li>
</ul>
</td><td style="color: #cc0000;"><ul>
<li>Trimpot doesn't have stops</li>
</ul>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>Would I buy stepper drivers from Snipermand again?</b><br />
<br />
No<br />
<br />
The lack of stops on the trimpot makes them a pain to use. Its a shame as the heatsink is good quality and the price is decent.JoeDaStuddhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14851083350058257771noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2014227902677398805.post-32684062058070479292014-03-08T17:30:00.000+00:002014-03-08T17:30:02.085+00:00Historic - Supplier Review: Thingfarm - Kapton Tape<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: red;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Please note this review is from my original build in 2011.</span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: red;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Some of the sellers no longer trade and where the seller is still trading the items will likely have changed.</span></span></div>
<a href="http://thingfarm.org/"><span style="font-size: large;">Thingfarm</span></a><br />
<br />
<b>Kapton Tape </b><br />
<br />
<table border="1" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0"><tbody>
<tr><td><b>Price</b></td><td>£3.33</td><td rowspan="3"><br /></td><td><b>Unit Type</b></td><td>Each</td></tr>
<tr><td><b>Delivery cost</b></td><td>£x.xx</td><td><b>Type</b></td><td>Std</td></tr>
<tr><td><b>Date Order</b></td><td>16/11/11</td><td><b>Date Received</b></td><td>25/11/11 </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
Kapton tape is used to help secure the thermistor and heating element to the hot end, its also used for heated print beds. At the time it worked out cheapest for a roll as the delivery was free when added to my existing ThingFarm order.<br />
The tape is a ~30m roll, however its only about 15mm wide. This makes it ideal for use on the hotend however its terrible for use as a print bed material.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table border="1" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0"><tbody>
<tr><th width="300px">Pros</th><th width="300px">Cons</th></tr>
<tr><td style="color: #38761d;"><ul>
<li>Cheap</li>
<li>Good for the hotend and wires </li>
</ul>
</td><td style="color: #990000;"><ul>
<li>Too thin for print bed use</li>
</ul>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>Would I buy Kapton tape from Thingfarm again?</b><br />
<br />
No<br />
<br />
This roll will be more then enough for any hotend or wiring usage I might need, however that's the limits of its use. A wider roll (50mm+) would have been more practical as it would fit all possible uses.JoeDaStuddhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14851083350058257771noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2014227902677398805.post-60862182559588747412014-03-07T17:30:00.000+00:002014-03-07T17:30:00.886+00:00Historic - Supplier Review: AndyE987 - 10K Resistors<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: red;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Please note this review is from my original build in 2011.</span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: red;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Some of the sellers no longer trade and where the seller is still trading the items will likely have changed.</span></span></div>
<a href="http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/andye987/"><span style="font-size: large;">AndyE987</span></a><br />
<br />
<b>SMD SMT 0805 10K Resistors Qty 10</b><br />
<br />
<table border="1" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0"><tbody>
<tr><td><b>Price</b></td><td>£1.30</td><td rowspan="3"><br /></td><td><b>Unit Type</b></td><td>Pack of 10</td></tr>
<tr><td><b>Delivery cost</b></td><td>£0.30</td><td><b>Type</b></td><td>1st class</td></tr>
<tr><td><b>Date Order</b></td><td>01/01/01</td><td><b>Date Received</b></td><td>01/01/01 </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
Just a 10 pack of SMD size 0805 10k resistors. I needed these as I managed to drop one of my work bench and as they are tiny couldn't find it.<br />
<br />
<table border="1" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0"><tbody>
<tr><th width="300px">Pros</th><th width="300px">Cons</th></tr>
<tr><td style="color: #38761d;"><ul>
<li>Cheap and work</li>
</ul>
</td><td style="color: #990000;"><ul>
<li>None</li>
</ul>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Would I buy resistors from AndyE985 again?<br />
<br />
Yes<br />
<br />
For the money they were the cheapest UK supplier at the time and delivered them quickly. Can't really say anything more as they are just resistors.JoeDaStuddhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14851083350058257771noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2014227902677398805.post-62782814749974144572014-03-05T08:00:00.000+00:002014-03-06T11:00:39.947+00:00Prusa i3 Upgrade/Update Parts - Quick updateThis is just a quick update on the Prusa i3 upgrade/update parts I ordered. <br />
<br />
<h3>
Printed Parts</h3>
I ordered them direct from <a href="http://3dprinterpunk.co.uk/3D_Printer_Punk/Home.html">3D Printer Punk</a> for only £19.<br />
Thought out the whole process Nel (signed Neil, but he kept referring to himself as Nel) kept me very informed.<br />
As he had no stock of the boxed version it was a custom print run so payment wasn't until most of the print was complete.<br />
At the 3/4 complete point I received an email informing me, a photo of the parts and if I was happy a invoice.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjuT247C6r2JRbBy3QFENbaJ-4HaqV774vtYFjGrZwKFNNfgZHiMqS181snRK6SsUBD7i_yKgy1aLaDD51mU-i27xJEwOXY6MOwYcg4by2ju5f4wbtJe3URr5kotc65jvpfGpOKrax6mWq/s1600/Joseph-70%25-Box-Framed-i3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjuT247C6r2JRbBy3QFENbaJ-4HaqV774vtYFjGrZwKFNNfgZHiMqS181snRK6SsUBD7i_yKgy1aLaDD51mU-i27xJEwOXY6MOwYcg4by2ju5f4wbtJe3URr5kotc65jvpfGpOKrax6mWq/s1600/Joseph-70%25-Box-Framed-i3.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The X Carriage is grey as its ABS (due to hotend heat) and not PLA like the other parts</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The parts looks better quality then I was expecting for so little money, so I promptly paid. <br />
<br />
The £19 included first class delivery (Royal Mail), as the ship date was a Friday I wasn't expecting them to arrive until the Monday<br />
<br />
To my surprise they arrived the next day carefully packed and included a dozen or so cable ties (the same bright colour of the ones in the photo). All the parts look good and after a quick check non of the holes look like they need drilling which is great.<br />
<br />
As I'm awaiting the rest of the parts so I'll wait until I actually use them before giving a verdict, but so far its very promising.<br />
Honestly for £19 shipped I can't see how he can continue selling them as time, filament, electricity and shipping can't leave much if any profit margin.<br />
<br />
<h3>
The Rest </h3>
I bought the rest (list can be found here) from <a href="http://www.emakershop.com/Seller=801">Greg Colbourn</a> via<a href="http://www.emakershop.com/"> eMakerShop</a> PM's and I was already aware he he had a large backorder for kits and printed parts. The current ETA of the parts are mid to late this week.<br />
<br />
<br />
<h3>
While I wait</h3>
While I'm waiting I'm compiling a list of articles and posts to help me configure the printer as best as possible.<br />
Once I get a fairly definitive list I'll make a quick post with them on.JoeDaStuddhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14851083350058257771noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2014227902677398805.post-37673472729414012192014-03-03T17:30:00.000+00:002014-03-06T14:24:25.060+00:00Upgrading Prusa i1 to i3 - PartsAs I mentioned in my previous post my current Prusa (i1) is in a pretty bad way as far as the plastics are concerned. Due to the original Prusa being phased out it was either a case of get the parts custom printed or look into alternatives.<br />
Given that my plan was to upgrade my Prusa a while back it seemed a little pointless getting custom printed parts then printing parts for a new printer myself. Both cost and timewise it wouldn't be too productive.<br />
As I mentioned before I'd my eye on the Mendel90 however the parts aren't readily available compared to the Prusa i3.<br />
<br />
<h3>
Re-usable Parts</h3>
Each 3d printer is made up of segments, some of which are interchangeable some of which aren't so much.<br />
Here's a quick run down:<br />
<table>
<tbody>
<tr><th>Segment</th><th>Description</th><th>Example</th><th>Interchangeable</th></tr>
<tr><th>Hardware</th><td colspan="3"></td></tr>
<tr><td></td><td>Fastenings</td><td>Nuts, screws, bolts</td><td>Some<span style="font-size: x-small;">*</span></td></tr>
<tr><td></td><td>Bearings</td><td>608zz and lm8uu</td><td>Yes<span style="font-size: x-small;">**</span></td></tr>
<tr><td></td><td>Rods</td><td>Threaded and smooth rods</td><td>Some<span style="font-size: x-small;">***</span></td></tr>
<tr><td></td><td>Belts and pulleys</td><td>T5, T2.5, GT2</td><td>Yes</td></tr>
<tr><th>Electronics</th><td colspan="3"></td></tr>
<tr><td></td><td>Main</td><td>Ramps, Gen6</td><td>Yes</td></tr>
<tr><td></td><td>Stepper motors</td><td>Nema17, Nema14</td><td>Yes</td></tr>
<tr><td></td><td>Heated Print bed</td><td></td><td>Yes</td></tr>
<tr><td></td><td>Hot End</td><td>J-Head, E3D</td><td>Yes</td></tr>
<tr><th>Plastics</th><td colspan="3"></td></tr>
<tr><td></td><td>Main parts</td><td></td><td>No</td></tr>
<tr><td></td><td>Extruder</td><td>Wades, Gregs</td><td>Yes<span style="font-size: x-small;">****</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Notes</b></span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">* Some of the fastenings will be re-usable however the newer Prusa (i3) has a few variants so double (and triple) check you have enough of each.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">** If like mine they have been stood for a while its worth checking them and adding some lubricant</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">*** Like the fastenings there are a few different builds of the Prusa (i3) and they use slightly different rod lengths. If the rods are in good condition they should be fine to replace the M8 and 8mm rods for the new Prusa with a little cutting.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">**** The extruder sits on the X carriage so should as long as there is room for it and the X carriage has mounting holes which match.</span><br />
<br />
<h3>
Which type/variant?</h3>
As I previously mentioned there are a few different types/variants of the Prusa i3. The main three are as follows.<br />
<ul>
<li>Laser cut - Wood</li>
<li>Laser cut - Aluminium </li>
<li>Boxed - Wood</li>
</ul>
Both of the laser cut versions use the single sheet style, this is to say the main Z axis only has one sheet/plate. The boxed version on the other hand uses multiple <i>sheets</i> on the Z axis.<br />
While the laser cut versions are lighter and look a little more fancy they lack the extra rigidity of the boxed version, however the boxed version is a little more DIY with holes to be drilled.<br />
<br />
For me a main factor is price which the boxed version wins at every time, while the laser cut versions require expensive machines the boxed version only requires basic tools and a little time. The difference is clear once you look up prices. Laser cut wood ~£40, laser cut aluminium £65, wood for the boxed version sub £10.<br />
<br />
<h3>
My plan</h3>
<h4>
Introduction </h4>
While I want to re-use as much as possible I don't want to risk damaging new parts because of old parts.<br />
I also don't want to be going out and buying new/better parts within a week or so of getting printing.<br />
For this reason I'm only reusing the electronics, bearings and (temporary) extruder.<br />
I could reuse a lot of the threaded rods however the printer has been sat for a while and I suspect the rods will have a little curvature to them.<br />
<br />
<h4>
Upgrades</h4>
Instead of opting for a straight forward rebuild (admittedly I doubt its going to be completely straight forward anyway) I want to make a few long standing upgrades.<br />
<br />
First the bearings all to lm8uu the original Prusa was focused on as much printable as possible so the base version relied on PLA bushings.<br />
While good they didn't last too long and, in my experience, had a habit of coming loose.<br />
With the Prusa i3 its all about print quality and stability so the PLA bushings got replaced with real bearings in the form of the lm8uu's (widely accepted as an upgrade option on the i1). So the lm8uu upgrade was part of the rebuild (but I'm still classing it as an upgrade).<br />
<br />
Second upgrade I've been meaning to do is the belts and pulleys.<br />
At the time of the original Prusa T5 were the norm, then T2.5 followed shortly after by the GT2. The T in T2.5 and T5 stands for timing, they were never designed to be used in the way RepRap'ers did. This was the reason they had issues with backlash and a few issues. The GT2 belts were designed for the actions of RepRaps and helped reduced the issues of the T belts, which of course helped improve the quality of the prints.<br />
<br />
Lastly I'm looking into auto bed leveling.<br />
With the original Prusa the bed needed leveling every print due to the vibrations adjusting not only the Z axis, but also the bolts and nuts on the print bed. Prusa i2 (or a heated bed upgrade) moved away from the spring setup which inproved things, but still wasn't ideal.<br />
Around mid to end of last year it appears functionality was added to Marlin (firmware) for auto bed levelling as well as add-ons/upgrades which use a servo and microswitch. The microswitch allows the firmware get the levels while the servo lifts and lowers a arm with the microswitch on it (lifters to avoid damaging the prints). I've got a dozen spare microswitches and some old motors lying around so this will be my first non-bought upgrade.<br />
<br />
<h4>
Suppliers</h4>
A lot has changed since I started my original Prusa some of the suppliers have disappeared, some no longer stock the same items and others have grown.<br />
Thingfarm, whom was my largest suppler last time, vanished not long after I got into the swing of things.<br />
Luckily eBay still has a decent amount of suppliers, but now seems to be more focused around electronic and hardware as opposed to plastics and fillament.<br />
A semi-new site for me is <a href="http://www.emakershop.com/">eMakerShop</a> I used it for the heated bed supplier (Think3D) and its grown nicely in all areas.<br />
<br />
For hardware I wanted I found the same seller was listed on both <a href="http://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/gcolbourn">eBay</a> and <a href="http://www.emakershop.com/Seller=801">eMakerShop</a> and was offering slightly different prices on each. Strangely enough a like for like was a few pence cheaper via eBay, its strange eMakerShop don't charge for listings, but eBay does.<br />
With this in mind and the items I wanted not in a set kit, I requested a quote and it was nearly £10 lower then the items bought separately from either.<br />
<br />
That was the hardware sorted now I needed the plastics, which is a lot more tricky then anyone new to RepRap would think. Good printed parts can be hard to come by and prices can change drastically depending on filament suppliers and demand.<br />
With cost in mind I took a punt and did something I refused to last time. Picked the cheapest UK based supplier off eBay (<a href="http://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/solderbridge">link to seller</a>). Unfortunately they only hand stock of the single sheet printed parts, luckily they supplied an email address, so I requested a quote. I got a nice reply quickly saying they had no stock, but could print me some within 24 to 32 hours for £19 delivered (note this is slightly cheaper then the eBay listings). Compared to the cost of my original printed parts at £75 +£7 P&P it was a world of difference, but worth a punt as I doubt I could get cheaper elsewhere.<br />
<br />
After some quick math I noticed I was under budget (I had budgeted £100) so added the pre-cut wood from the eMakerShop seller for £10+£3 addition P&P.<br />
<br />
<h4>
The parts</h4>
Here's a quick run down of the parts I've ordered:<br />
<ul>
<li>Prusa i3 (box) small hardware kit (no 608ZZ, cable ties or bulldog clips)</li>
<li>10 LM8UUs</li>
<li>GT2 belts & pulleys</li>
<li>Prusa i3 (box) smooth rods</li>
<li>Prusa i3 (box) threaded rods</li>
<li>Prusa i3 (box) wood</li>
<li>Plastic parts for Prusa i3 (box) excluding extruder</li>
</ul>
Hopefully all the parts will be delivered shortly and I can get to work building.JoeDaStuddhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14851083350058257771noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2014227902677398805.post-90279484805018547832014-03-01T17:30:00.000+00:002014-03-04T10:33:09.227+00:00Historic - Supplier Review: idg-trading<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: red;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Please note this review is from my original build in 2011.</span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: red;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Some of the sellers no longer trade and where the seller is still trading the items will likely have changed.</span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><b><a href="http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/idg-trading/">idg-trading</a></b></span><br />
<br />
<b>1.5 MM FLUXED DESOLDERING BRAID</b><br />
<br />
<table border="1" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0"><tbody>
<tr><td><b>Price</b></td><td>£0.99</td><td rowspan="3"><br /></td><td><b>Unit Type</b></td><td>Each</td></tr>
<tr><td><b>Delivery cost</b></td><td>£0.00</td><td><b>Type</b></td><td>Economy Delivery</td></tr>
<tr><td><b>Date Order</b></td><td><span class="g-v33">13/10/11</span></td><td><b>Date Received</b></td><td>01/01/01 </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
Product Review<br />
<br />
<br />
<table border="1" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0"><tbody>
<tr><th width="300px">Pros</th><th width="300px">Cons</th></tr>
<tr><td style="color: #38761d;"><ul>
<li>Cheap</li>
<li>Just the right size for this project </li>
</ul>
</td><td style="color: #cc0000;"><ul>
<li>None</li>
</ul>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>Would I buy soldering braid from idg-trading again?</b><br />
<br />
Yes.<br />
<br />
Its cheap and does its job. Nothing more to say really.JoeDaStuddhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14851083350058257771noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2014227902677398805.post-64717875568561630502014-02-28T17:30:00.000+00:002014-03-04T10:32:14.373+00:00Historic - Supplier Review: Nophead - Plastics<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: red;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Please note this review is from my original build in 2011.</span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: red;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Some of the sellers no longer trade and where the seller is still trading the items will likely have changed.</span></span></div>
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/nophead00/">Nophead</a></span></b><br />
<br />
<b>RepRap Prusa Mendel plastic parts +Wade's, ready to use</b><br />
<br />
<table border="1" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0"><tbody>
<tr><td><b>Price</b></td><td>£75.00</td><td rowspan="3"><br /></td><td><b>Unit Type</b></td><td>Each</td></tr>
<tr><td><b>Delivery cost</b></td><td>£7.00</td><td><b>Type</b></td><td>Express Delivery</td></tr>
<tr><td><b>Date Order</b></td><td>13/10/11</td><td><b>Date Received</b></td><td>15/10/11</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
One of the most noticeable parts of any RepRap is the plastic, in most cases created by a RepRap, parts.<br />
<br />
The plastic parts Nophead supplies are created using tried and tested materials to special specs for the best performance.<br />
All parts excluding the brushings are ABS for strength and heat resistance.<br />
Varying desity depending on area of use as well as next to no clean up required.<br />
<br />
The pulleys even come with grub nuts pre-inserted.<br />
<br />
I received emails at every step of the ordering and shipping process as well as a good luck message.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table border="1" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0"><tbody>
<tr><th width="300px">Pros</th><th width="300px">Cons</th></tr>
<tr><td style="color: #38761d;"><ul>
<li>Amazing delivery time</li>
<li>High quality prints</li>
<li>Great Communication </li>
</ul>
</td><td style="color: #cc0000;"><ul>
<li>Slightly more expensive then other suppliers</li>
</ul>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>Would I buy plastics from Nophead again?</b><br />
<br />
Yes.<br />
<br />
Finger crossed when my RepRap is up and running I don't have to buy plastic parts from anyone, but on the off chance I needed a full set ASAP I would definably use Nophead again.<br />
Highly recommended for a UK beginner due to the lack of cleaning/finishing.JoeDaStuddhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14851083350058257771noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2014227902677398805.post-61141935881388757772014-02-27T17:30:00.000+00:002014-03-04T10:25:36.919+00:00Coming backHi,<br />
<br />
After a hiatus (I love the sound of this word) and a few false starts I'm finally managing to set aside some time (and funds) to get this project back up and running.<br />
<br />
<h3>
The hiatus</h3>
For anyone wondering where I've been or why I just suddenly stop blogging/printing it was an accumulation of things.<br />
<br />
Firstly just as I was getting into the swing of things (after I fixed my numerous errors) my sister purchased a house which was in a state of disrepair. So for nearly three months every weekend, most week nights and any holidays.<br />
Shortly following this she got pregnant with her first child, which happened to be the first child in the house/family for nearly 18 years. Everything went baby mad from scans to cloths to baby proofing the house to panicking about all the projects in the house to get ready so everything was perfect for the baby.<br />
Part of the preparation was my bedroom being surrendered as it was one of the largest bedrooms in place of a room about 1/2 the size. This massively threw off my printing setup as I had dedicated an area for the printer and in the new the same space would have taken up 1/3rd of it.<br />
<br />
<h3>
The first false start</h3>
Skip forward until after the birth, quite a while after if I'm honest, it was a c section and my mother setup her own business which kept everyone busy. I set about getting back into printing so I set about upgrading the build to something more reliable and for better prints.<br />
For this I purchased a heated bed kit and set about installing it. At this point I noticed another mistake with my original build. The print bed was the wrong dimensions (250mm² instead of 225mm²).<br />
I managed to fix the issue best as I could (cutting it down and sanding).<br />
While doing this I noticed one of the PLA bushings on the Z had come loose so I set about fixing that too.<br />
On top of the heated bed I had also ordered a replacement electronic, as the original RAMPS 1.4 I soldered, while working, wasn't pretty or safe (I'll post pictures soon).<br />
This time I picked RAMPS 1.3 which is essentially the same only all through hole making it a lot easier to solder.<br />
After some calibration and some tweaking. I did a few test prints and was happy with the results.<br />
While I was setting up for some bigger prints (lm8uu conversion) the Z endstop cracked (made from ABS and was under pressure to keep it locked), luckily I had a spare from the original prints I did. However I checked my box of replacement parts and noticed a lot of them had disappeared.<br />
At this point fearing something else would break and cause the hotend to break the new print bed I started looking for replacement parts online.<br />
Nophead had just released plans for the mendel90 and the whole RepRap community was throwing out Prusa tweaks and designs left right and center.<br />
So I stored the printer away and told myself I would I'd look into it at a later date when everything had settled down.<br />
<br />
<h3>
</h3>
<h3>
Second hiatus</h3>
With the printer on the back burner I turned my attention to fruit and vegetable gardening and fishing.<br />
It started off as a few tomato and cucumber plants in a greenhouse to a bit of an obsession.<br />
I had<br />
<ul>
<li>~36 garlic plants, </li>
<li>20 or so broad bean plants</li>
<li>5 rats tail radish <i>trees</i></li>
<li>3 different varieties of tomatoes (12 plants in total)</li>
<li>3 cucumbers</li>
<li>3 buckets of oriental greens</li>
<li>3 buckets of carrots</li>
<li>3 buckets of spring onions</li>
<li>A trough of oriental greens and kale</li>
<li>A large trough of lettuce and radish</li>
<li>2 buckets of asparagus peas</li>
<li>5 trays of peashoots</li>
<li>5 jalapeño plants</li>
<li>~6 buckets of potatoes</li>
<li>And lot of other veg </li>
</ul>
So in-between fishing, gardening, good weather and everything else I thought little about the printer.<br />
<br />
<h3>
Second and shortest false start</h3>
Before Christmas last year I thought it would be nice to make some customer prints for the family as present and decorations.<br />
Within 30 minutes of checking the print became apparent that; a the printer desperately need money and time spending on it and b it needed moving so that it would be impossible for my niece to get to it (she has an obsession with my room and removing random items for some reason).<br />
<br />
<h3>
Current plan</h3>
My current plan is to do a direct upgrade to Prusa i3 (based on Mendel90 I believe) reusing parts where I can.<br />
I'll detail my plan and notes in a post shortly.<br />
<br />
In the meantime I've found a lot of posts I saved in drafts but never scheduled or released. Most of them are seller reviews which was a new concept I planned on doing; a review of each seller I used, prices and the product recieved. A lot of these will be out of date and glancing at them some (if not most) have stopped trading.<br />
Having said this they will link in perfectly with the new parts I'm ordering so I'll be posting them soon.JoeDaStuddhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14851083350058257771noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2014227902677398805.post-75909484423191051512012-05-11T18:57:00.000+01:002012-05-11T18:57:00.344+01:00Calibration - Motors (stepper drivers)<i>As with all calibration steps you should take your time (as long as you need) and try to be as accurate as possible. Calibration will directly affect the quality of your prints.</i><br />
<br />
<br />
In order to calibrate the drivers the printer must be powered on, connected to your computer and requires you to be working very closely with the electronic parts. For this reason I highly recommend you take basic electrostatic precautions before doing this (more information in the notes section).<br />
<br />
<b>Introduction </b><br />
<br />
Calibrating the stepper motors is very straight forward and requires only a small flat headed screwdriver and a little time (the fastest calibration step).<br />
However if you miss this step or wing it you can are likely to have issues with overheating (of the stepper drivers) and/or missing steps.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Calibration</b><br />
<br />
Ok enough of the disclaimers and introductions.<br />
<br />
<br />
First get your small flat heated screwdriver (you can use a cross head with official Pololu's, but a flat heat works with both Pololu's and stepsticks) and turn the trim pot (the bit highlighted in the below image) counter clockwise until it reaches home.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb6_tj1ApP8S8bkKuql7vpOtHM2QsTEVn4vWjhmGaC8cuEs9t81ghyphenhyphenaPC9xJPQN8IMPxyEQ9Oj-rCYgDrxHWrMDHtPnERXI02r9R-jWh9r6lERLe55r5I-cRKT3_mOshEkGllwPy_b7gIr/s1600/Stepper.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb6_tj1ApP8S8bkKuql7vpOtHM2QsTEVn4vWjhmGaC8cuEs9t81ghyphenhyphenaPC9xJPQN8IMPxyEQ9Oj-rCYgDrxHWrMDHtPnERXI02r9R-jWh9r6lERLe55r5I-cRKT3_mOshEkGllwPy_b7gIr/s320/Stepper.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Now turn it back 1/4, using PrintRun move the motor attached to the stepper driver you just adjusted.<br />
Slowly turn the trimpot until the stepper motor moves. Once its moving stop PrintRun then turn the stepper driver just less then 1/4 more.<br />
<br />
Rinse and repeat with each of the stepper motors/drivers.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Notes</b><br />
<br />
For the Y and Z you need the carriage on and hotend installed, otherwise the motor will be calibrated excluding this weight.<br />
<br />
Electrostatic precautions;<br />
<ul><li>Don't touch the electronics directly (use the screwdriver)</li>
<li>Don't do the calibration when wearing socks without shoes, especially on carpet</li>
<li>Do ground yourself before doing the calibration</li>
<li>Above all don't moon walk on a carpet when wearing wooly socks, trousers and jumper before doing the calibration.</li>
</ul><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>JoeDaStuddhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14851083350058257771noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2014227902677398805.post-14001080050910555192012-03-15T17:49:00.000+00:002012-03-15T17:49:00.567+00:00Slicing and Hosting SoftwareNow if your new to 3d printing the terms slicing software and hosting software might a bit weird.<br />
A slicing program takes a 3d model and translates it into <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/G-code">G-code</a>. Its like a building designer passing drawings to a engineer so they can make plans.<br />
The host program sends all the gcode to the printer.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Slicing software</b><br />
<br />
At the moment there are 2 (as far as I can tell) biggies; <a href="https://github.com/ahmetcemturan/SFACT/">SFACT</a> -the new <a href="http://fabmetheus.crsndoo.com/">SkeinForge</a> and <a href="http://slic3r.org/">Slic3r</a>. <br />
<br />
I've personally only tried Slic3r which works very well.<br />
<br />
RichRap has an excellent setup and usage tutorial (<a href="http://richrap.blogspot.com/2012/01/slic3r-is-nicer-part-1-settings-and.html">link</a>) on his blog. He goes through pretty much every setting as well as showing the difference changing the settings can make.<br />
<br />
I've heard very good things would SFACT and its parent SkeinForge however I've resisted the urge to give them a real it as I've heard its a pain in the neck to get up and running.<br />
<br />
Here a quick comparison of the interfaces.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyrTUWJiuWLVsiGR1p80_zsrzLguMqDHnJX6LqWBmJ5_ujxG08VJiSwmSEYnr3NcOKGmYgX5svPBkM-JUXwrD31MP4EG18euBR-8d0FyIOtqMHCEw8CZPSdkHenCJ2r_uoqDO1m2CyXThk/s1600/slic3r_interface.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="275" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyrTUWJiuWLVsiGR1p80_zsrzLguMqDHnJX6LqWBmJ5_ujxG08VJiSwmSEYnr3NcOKGmYgX5svPBkM-JUXwrD31MP4EG18euBR-8d0FyIOtqMHCEw8CZPSdkHenCJ2r_uoqDO1m2CyXThk/s400/slic3r_interface.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Slic3r</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsut5Idn3SD4RcZM_bXVyKG9EGoMcaWLgUyfPOZbw0nlQ83vNKIOBgpO2mskcpuLyNwCOvFkK_Mc3mYyTCuhFw7hyphenhyphenDoWDoJAArCR0ucZ_cYz7yX3R5tcSGuAbfVHcI5vdS4AWVjOGH7uFO/s1600/SFACT_interface.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsut5Idn3SD4RcZM_bXVyKG9EGoMcaWLgUyfPOZbw0nlQ83vNKIOBgpO2mskcpuLyNwCOvFkK_Mc3mYyTCuhFw7hyphenhyphenDoWDoJAArCR0ucZ_cYz7yX3R5tcSGuAbfVHcI5vdS4AWVjOGH7uFO/s400/SFACT_interface.png" width="280" /><span id="goog_14068119"></span><span id="goog_14068120"></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Skeinforge</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
Yes that's 4 tabs in Slic3r and over 30 in SFACT.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Hosting Software</b><br />
<br />
Unlike slicing software there are quite a few different hosting applications out there all pretty popular. There's ReplicatorG, PrintRun (pronterface), Repetiter and RedSnapper just to name a few.<br />
<br />
So far I've used only PrintRun and Repetiter.<br />
<br />
<br />
<u>PrintRun</u><br />
<br />
I found Printrun very easy to setup and run. The windows file even has a nice .exe file to run which saves downloading and installing the separate Python packages.<br />
<br />
The interface is simple and very straight to the point, ideal for testing and calibration.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7VtnUv8i2vK1Sf6rw8u7kzxNo2QfI6zPkk6V3yVBWA9WDisY1HoLLkvipUQJLYcFZlqOiyvnRUK45eSPgoc-uoXhWe2RzO1aYMyrH8ZVDBO8M_DSZy-AQ9yhuB_JWBdD2m33zwG9aWfKw/s1600/printrun_interface.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="162" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7VtnUv8i2vK1Sf6rw8u7kzxNo2QfI6zPkk6V3yVBWA9WDisY1HoLLkvipUQJLYcFZlqOiyvnRUK45eSPgoc-uoXhWe2RzO1aYMyrH8ZVDBO8M_DSZy-AQ9yhuB_JWBdD2m33zwG9aWfKw/s320/printrun_interface.png" width="320" /></a></div>So far I've had no issues with PrintRun so I'm reluctant to change it for any other host software until I've got a little more experience under my belt.<br />
<br />
<u>Repetiter</u><br />
<br />
From the little I've used Repetiter it feels like a more grown up version of PrintRun. There are more options and a more adult interface (no colour coded axis or nice control pad).<br />
One big advantage Repetiter has is the gcode viewer.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUa7v_L5MYFzaZHUs2DQjNKHf1nceemjc8DDnhhPayCTEZJbsz4Ft6tVyOHsLVeAKFjwZqOQuVqN2YJ5NxYv7HdHDKO50Ne_UgUKb_lD-Of0weRdt3NF5sP_Aghqyfp44hn7mYDj6YOwlh/s1600/repetiter_interface.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="307" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUa7v_L5MYFzaZHUs2DQjNKHf1nceemjc8DDnhhPayCTEZJbsz4Ft6tVyOHsLVeAKFjwZqOQuVqN2YJ5NxYv7HdHDKO50Ne_UgUKb_lD-Of0weRdt3NF5sP_Aghqyfp44hn7mYDj6YOwlh/s400/repetiter_interface.png" width="400" /></a></div>The blue object is a visual view of the gcode the slicing software generated. For the object on screen its over 45000 lines of code which would without Repetiter take a lot of time to troubleshoot.<br />
<br />
Like SFACT I do plan on taking the time to learn the interface as options, but for the moment I'm just using Repetiter to double check my gcode.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
As I get to know the programs more and use different programs I'll hopefully write mini-reviews or setup guides.JoeDaStuddhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14851083350058257771noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2014227902677398805.post-66171658925572135032012-03-04T10:09:00.003+00:002012-03-12T13:16:10.589+00:00FirmwareBefore our brand new printer can print anything the electronics needs firmware.<br />
<br />
There are numerous different firmwares, each with there own advantages and disadvantages. At the moment there are 2 main contenders when it comes to firmware for RAMPS; <a href="https://github.com/kliment/Sprinter">Sprinter</a> and <a href="https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin">Marlin</a>.<br />
<br />
Sprinter has been out longer and is a little easier to configure and get up and running, so I'll start with Sprinter.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Step 1. Arduino Software</b><br />
<br />
In order to install the firmware we need to be able to talk to the electronics.<br />
To do this we need to use the Arduino software which can be downloaded <a href="http://arduino.cc/hu/Main/Software">here</a>.<br />
<br />
Uncompress the download and run the program.<br />
Now the programming is running we need to make sure the settings are correct for the electronics.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyEAdXYAI1YhjCE1XIq13W7xSwtF0auKm3Az6xAznISymDwgNJHUfQvciX2nIuhCfiUy6QQbqsoaIhZetNtXglNaiRjDh7iDh8raLjOjTKkPCQWeoHXiq-PFkL1jPxa2rGWQTv738Mdinw/s1600/arduino.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="386" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyEAdXYAI1YhjCE1XIq13W7xSwtF0auKm3Az6xAznISymDwgNJHUfQvciX2nIuhCfiUy6QQbqsoaIhZetNtXglNaiRjDh7iDh8raLjOjTKkPCQWeoHXiq-PFkL1jPxa2rGWQTv738Mdinw/s400/arduino.png" width="400" /></a></div><br />
The Board option needs to be set to the Arduino chip being used, for RAMPS this is Mega or Mega 2560 (2560 if you using the newer board).<br />
The Serial Port also needs to be correct, as a rule of thumb its the last one of the list.<br />
<br />
At this point if you want to quickly test RAMPS copy and paste the code from <a href="http://reprap.org/mediawiki/images/0/0f/RAMPS1.4_TestCode.pde">here</a> into the sketch window then hit upload<br />
All the motors should cycle (turn both directions, one after the other) and the heaters will turn on and off.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Step 2. Configuring Sprinter</b><br />
<br />
Download Sprinter from <a href="https://github.com/kliment/Sprinter/downloads">here</a> and uncompress the file.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPavfkuxB_W3UMdD2hhplzBlFwWf0LaywwUpcxDc0zyG8Fj0w3NGF2SWJCVI593axZqcnuv4iylcBRNHbzmHRWwB-0beGH_iVYdK9ZSAdRQa_i2Wap8PZ_SwZ3itoDPJBfYFwxOeDuIM8m/s1600/sprinter.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="329" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPavfkuxB_W3UMdD2hhplzBlFwWf0LaywwUpcxDc0zyG8Fj0w3NGF2SWJCVI593axZqcnuv4iylcBRNHbzmHRWwB-0beGH_iVYdK9ZSAdRQa_i2Wap8PZ_SwZ3itoDPJBfYFwxOeDuIM8m/s640/sprinter.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ignore the message in the centre,<br />
simply click either of the links in the red box</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
In the Sprinter folder there is a file called Configuration.h open it using notepad or a similar program (eg <a href="http://notepad-plus-plus.org/">notepad++</a>).<br />
<br />
<br />
<u>Line 17 </u><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace; font-size: x-small;">#define MOTHERBOARD 3</span><br />
<br />
Change the number to suit your electronics, in the case of RAMPS 1.4 its 33.<br />
<div style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">#define MOTHERBOARD 33</span></div><br />
<br />
<u>Line 26 and 27</u><br />
<br />
<div style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">#define THERMISTORHEATER 1<br />
#define THERMISTORBED 1</span></div><br />
Change the number to suit the thermistor your using.<br />
<br />
<br />
<u>Line 31</u><br />
<br />
<div style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">float axis_steps_per_unit[] = {80, 80, 3200/1.25,700}; </span></div><br />
If your using 1/8 microstepping stepper drivers half all numbers. If just one of the motors is using 1/8 microstepping just half the relevant number.<br />
<br />
<br />
<u>Line 51</u><br />
<br />
<div style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">#define SDSUPPORT</span></div><br />
If your not using a SD attachment you can comment this line out, like so<br />
<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace; font-size: x-small;">//#define SDSUPPORT</span><br />
<br />
<br />
<u>Line 74</u><br />
<br />
<div style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">const bool INVERT_Y_DIR = false;</span></div><br />
If your using the standard prusa setup with the motor at the front this line needs to be changed otherwise your prints will be mirrored. <br />
<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace; font-size: x-small;">const bool INVERT_Y_DIR = true;</span><br />
<br />
<br />
Save the file and now its time to upload Sprinter.<br />
<br />
In the Arduino software, File -> Open<br />
Select sprinter.pde<br />
<br />
Click upload.<br />
<br />
Congratulations you've installed Sprinter firmware on your electronics.JoeDaStuddhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14851083350058257771noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2014227902677398805.post-33813533950000877032012-03-02T17:46:00.003+00:002012-03-02T17:46:00.138+00:00Frame and mechanical build - X carriage<b>Nut traps - page 46</b><br />
<br />
I found it easiest if you get the nuts into the trap then insert the smooth rod (or a section of) then tighten the bolts with the rod keeping the nut from falling out.<br />
<br />
<b>Glueing the bushings - page 69</b><br />
<br />
I had found this rather annoying. You need to rest or clamp the X carriage against something when they are drying, otherwise the bushings won't be flush against the bars.<br />
Skip to section 14 (clamping the smooth rods to the top) then apply the glue, push the 2 parts onto the bushings then tighten the bolts on the underside.<br />
After the glue has set check the bushings jog along the smooth bars, if they don't clamp them back on the top and loosen or tighten the underside bolts.<br />
<br />
<b>Z axis threaded rod - page 71</b><br />
<br />
If you don't have the springs for the Z axis you simply need to drop a m8 nut into the top nut trap.<br />
Its very easy to read it as all of step 17 is optional, its not without a nut in the top the x carriage will jump out of align.<br />
<br />
<b>X carriage belt - 83</b><br />
<br />
Make sure the belt lines up before fastening them, if its too far away from the smooth rod it will cause the belt to slide off the bearing. This will in turn lead to the belt both rubbing the washer and randomly snagging on the washer.JoeDaStuddhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14851083350058257771noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2014227902677398805.post-48837042780137197292012-02-23T18:13:00.001+00:002012-02-23T18:13:00.150+00:00Frame and mechanical build - Print bed<u>Before drilling or preparing the print bed check the sizes are correct.</u><br />
<br />
I asked for my mdf to be cut to 225mm x 225mm and 140mm x 225mm at my local B&Q. For some reason they took it the 225's as 275...<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Drilling (corners) - page 39</b><br />
<br />
Its pretty straight forward however if you want to be precise there should be a 42.5mm gap on both sides of the 225mm plate (when drilling the 2nd set of holes).<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Drilling (belt clamp) - page 49 </b><br />
<br />
First follow the alignment steps from pages 41 to 43.<br />
Once its aligned jump to page 49 and follow the steps.<br />
<br />
Doing it in this order means you don't have to remove the print bed with the bushings glued on. Otherwise you have to be extremely careful both when drilling the belt clamp holes and when removing and reattaching the bed.<br />
I had to re-glue one of the bushings on eachof my first 2 removals (the 2nd was due to the bed being the wrong size) which is another step and another wait until its set.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Glueing - page 43</b><br />
<br />
<i>Skip if your not using PLA bushings</i><br />
<br />
I found it best to line the bushings up at either the front or back of the frame. This way when you join the bed and the bushings you can use the horizontal bars to ensure the alignment.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Top print bed surface</b><br />
<br />
Before attaching the top print bed you need to apply some form of printing surface. You could print directly onto mdf or glass however you'd have 2 big issues; damage to the surface (160C+ plastic and the mdf or glass aren't the best of friends) and grip.<br />
To solve this most people with either kapton tape or blue scotch tape.<br />
Kapton is slightly better, but costs considerably more for similar width tape.<br />
Blue scotch tape has a surprisingly good tolerance to heat, is cheaper and is more widely available. <br />
<br />
When applying it to the top print bed on mdf its best to apply a few layers in criss cross pattern. One layer horizontal, followed by one vertical. About 3 or 4 layers should be enough. This stops the tape peeling the mdf or removing the tape below when removing prints.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Attaching the top print bed - page 101</b><br />
<br />
If your springs are fairly weak its best to have at least 5mm of thread sticking out. Otherwise as the bed sets in there is a good chance it will sink on one or more of the corners.<br />
<br />
If you have m3 nylock nuts this is definitely the time to use them. I found standard nuts loosen extremely easily during printing and the bed will need constant levelling between every (even the small ones) print.JoeDaStuddhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14851083350058257771noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2014227902677398805.post-7914521822830332982012-02-17T08:00:00.000+00:002012-02-17T08:00:00.568+00:00An oops and quick update<b>The oops </b><br />
<br />
For what ever reason my last 2 posts where back to front.<br />
The tools sections should have been released before the frame build tips/tweaks.<br />
When I came to give a quick update I noticed the tools post was marked as draft.<br />
<br />
Anyway I apologise if it confused anyone.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Quick update</b><br />
<br />
I've managed to calibrate my Prusa and I'm getting good prints all round (well not round as Sprinter doesn't like circles much :-p).<br />
In light of the halfway decent prints I created a <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/">Thingiverse</a> account which can be viewed <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/JoeDaStudd">here</a>.<br />
<br />
I still have a lot I want to write up as information from a newbies point of view is still pretty hard to come by.<br />
<br />
My current list is;<br />
<ul><li>Build part 2 - X axis and print bed</li>
<li>Slicing and Hosting software</li>
<li>Calibration part 1 - Axis, extruder and levelling print bed</li>
<li>Calibration part 2 - Printing and troubleshooting</li>
</ul><br />
<br />
Don't worry I made notes and kept all my failed prints.JoeDaStuddhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14851083350058257771noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2014227902677398805.post-89585997280371370772012-02-16T17:20:00.000+00:002012-02-16T17:20:00.308+00:00Frame and mechanical build - ToolsPersonally I found building the frame, extruder and print bed fairly simple. I did however run into a few issues (hence the delay) as well as making a few notes as I went along.<br />
<br />
I've broken this down into two sections; the frame and extruder, and the print bed and X axis (plus carriage). The frame and extruder can be build separately and don't rely on any other parts. The print bed and X axis rely heavily on the frame and the X carriage requires the extruder.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Tools - Frame/Extruder</b><br />
<br />
Required tools are the ones you can get by with, recommended makes the build a lot easier.<br />
This is for a Prusa using a standard Wades extruder. <br />
<br />
<u>Required</u><br />
<br />
Hex (allen) keys or Torx keys <span style="font-size: xx-small;"><b>Note 1</b></span><br />
M8 sized spanner<br />
Measuring device (ruler, tape measure, etc)<br />
Plumb (or some fine thread and a nut)<br />
Levelling device (spirit level, phone with an levelling app, etc) <br />
<br />
<b>Note 1</b> the thingfarm prusa kit requires torx. You <i>can</i> use hex to tighten torx however you can't remove them easily and you can't tighten them as much.<br />
<b>Note 2</b> a bomb style fishing weight attached to some fishing line makes a very cheap and effective plumb. The weights sell for as little as 30p and include a swivel, its a lot cheaper then official plumbs (£2+)<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<u>Recommended</u><br />
<br />
Pliers<br />
A second M8 sized spanner<br />
M3 sized spanner (6mm works)<br />
Plastic parts cleaning tools:<br />
<ul><li>Craft knife</li>
<li>Files</li>
<li>8mm drive bit</li>
<li>Drill </li>
</ul><br />
<br />
<b>Tools - Print bed and X axis (plus carriage)</b><br />
<br />
<u>Required</u><br />
<br />
Adhesive (glue)<br />
3mm drill bit<br />
Drill<br />
Hex (allen) keys or Torx keys (see frame/extruder notes)<br />
Measuring device (ruler, tape measure, etc)<br />
Pencil<br />
Levelling device (spirit level, phone with an levelling app, etc) <br />
<br />
<br />
<u>Recommended</u><br />
<br />
Pliers<br />
M3 sized spanner (5.5mm)<br />
Plastic parts cleaning tools:<br />
<ul><li>Craft knife - if using a hot glue gun its highly recommended</li>
<li>Files</li>
<li>3mm and 4mm drive bits</li>
<li>Drill </li>
</ul><br />
<br />
<b>General notes</b><br />
<br />
Depending on where you get your printed parts from the cleaning tools may be essential.<br />
Cable ties (zip ties) help a lot with the wire management as well as for a few hacks.<br />
<ul></ul>JoeDaStuddhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14851083350058257771noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2014227902677398805.post-71866831603259887802012-02-11T15:35:00.001+00:002012-02-28T11:32:57.669+00:00Frame and mechanical build - FrameAt this point you've got the tools mentioned in my previous post and you've got the parts required for the build.<br />
<br />
For the build itself I highly recommend you use the <a href="http://garyhodgson.com/reprap/prusa-mendel-visual-instructions/">visual guide</a> by Gary Hodgson, its a very nice piece of documentation.<br />
<br />
The purpose of the build posts is not a how to guide its merely notes or tweaks I made while building as well as tips.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Y axis motor bracket - page 17/19</b><br />
<br />
The visual guide gives you the following image.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcNCODnitOpCOVTnUgw-EfxyK9XgX3QSYSR8Q3J02Y9fMovXR15HgcxhlHzMAFgXe2q2RhevKf3usnPW0fxzgri7Tz2XXKA4zRGxpS80ZtnuuPGedVabxYb1p3so8oaoZxKdex1YOcO-xE/s1600/y_motor.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="157" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcNCODnitOpCOVTnUgw-EfxyK9XgX3QSYSR8Q3J02Y9fMovXR15HgcxhlHzMAFgXe2q2RhevKf3usnPW0fxzgri7Tz2XXKA4zRGxpS80ZtnuuPGedVabxYb1p3so8oaoZxKdex1YOcO-xE/s400/y_motor.png" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>The optional section isn't optional, but at the same time doesn't work for every motor.<br />
If you don't use the washer, nut, washer, washer combo the M3 bolt will push against the large washer and cause it to slant.<br />
If you use the combo and have a short shaft on the motor the pulley won't reach over the bearing.<br />
<br />
The solution is to attach the motor with pulley to the Y motor bracket then slide it onto the rod. Make sure it lines up correctly then remove the motor.<br />
For reference the motors I used, SY42STH47-1684A, 3 washers seemed to be the sweet spot.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Y axis motor bracket (part II) - page 47</b><br />
<br />
If you followed the above tip you should be able to mount the pulley the opposite way around.<br />
This should prevent the belt slipping (it also helps a lot when you come to tighten the Y axis belt).<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Z axis motor mounting - page 73</b><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<u><b>Don't</b></u> bolt the motor to the Z motor mount.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0GGRQf5mDgIdNi4j5-HxFK2QpvNh4NcA2DHgKxOap9C8WcxNS9LAgklEn42muNITW9i3QjyjP8jKKSijt81Diy1KxZEWImu3TXdZ8ChyeGZtpwGQy8iORalUhTBQ3E12qUW0IPhe4fXvE/s1600/Yaxis.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0GGRQf5mDgIdNi4j5-HxFK2QpvNh4NcA2DHgKxOap9C8WcxNS9LAgklEn42muNITW9i3QjyjP8jKKSijt81Diy1KxZEWImu3TXdZ8ChyeGZtpwGQy8iORalUhTBQ3E12qUW0IPhe4fXvE/s1600/Yaxis.png" /></a></div><br />
If you do you'll have issues with the Z axis wobbling, they need to have some movement so that they can counter any wobble in the Z threads.<br />
Attach them using cable (zip) ties, 2 medium sized ones coupled or 1 long one either side. Remember to leave a few mm gap from the motor shaft.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>End stops - 89/91</b><br />
<br />
If your using RAMPS 1.4 and Sprinter the Y endstop is on the wrong side for the default settings.<br />
RAMPS will try to home the opposite direction and it requires some tweaking of the configuration file.<br />
<br />
<br />
Its much easier to just fit it on the motor side. Although I'll post which lines to edit in a later post just in case you've already made the same mistake as me.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><b>UPDATE</b></span> the endstop for the Y axis should be on the <u>opposite</u> site to the motor. You need to change the following line (line 74) in configuration.h<br />
<div style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">const bool INVERT_Y_DIR = false;</span></div>to<br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">const bool INVERT_Y_DIR = true;</span></span><br />
<br />
If you don't all your prints will be mirrored as the Y is going in the wrong direction.JoeDaStuddhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14851083350058257771noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2014227902677398805.post-20942311683185875042012-02-05T17:15:00.000+00:002012-02-05T17:15:33.725+00:00Wiring - crimps, joining and endstopsThe mechanical side of the build (frame, extruder and print bed) is fairly straight forward as long as you have the correct tools and parts. As there isn't much too it and its pretty well documented I'll post that later.<br />
<br />
I used 0.1inch crimps and connected housings from <a href="http://www.hobbytronics.co.uk/">Hobbytronics</a>, see my Connectors, crimps and wires post (<a href="http://jds-reprap.blogspot.com/2011/11/connectors-crimps-and-wires.html">link</a>) for full details.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Crimping</b><br />
<br />
To crimp the connectors I used a small nosed pair of pliers, as opposed to spending £20+ on an official tool.<br />
Nophead outlines the method in this video.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/KEm2PuHBt4Y?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><br />
<br />
<b>Motor connectors</b><br />
<br />
This are very straight forward, if you brought your stepper motors from Zapp you don't even have to strip the wire.<br />
<br />
Crimp the 4 wires then insert them in order (<a href="http://reprap.org/wiki/Stepper_motor#NEMA_17_Motors">link</a> to wiki page about wire colour) into a 4 way housing. In the case of the SY42STH47-1684A is black, green, blue, red.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Endstops (mechanical)</b><br />
<br />
Firstly you need to solder or connect (using a crimp on the wire) your 2 wires to the switch.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1VLjr0PZbbfCSvWZcdWwQzZ3xv831FPkHvcPhbO2eD7-CJ6UP46eQtuPjQevYU0nYFrctuMmu-MhOGan4PJcw65jXjQ4WGZnO7JCmCG5wMdPBIp-lmiwM0DofQ_T2dBbUeImRKFrWDm3l/s1600/switch.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1VLjr0PZbbfCSvWZcdWwQzZ3xv831FPkHvcPhbO2eD7-CJ6UP46eQtuPjQevYU0nYFrctuMmu-MhOGan4PJcw65jXjQ4WGZnO7JCmCG5wMdPBIp-lmiwM0DofQ_T2dBbUeImRKFrWDm3l/s1600/switch.png" /></a></div>On the above image I've marked which legs of the switch to join the wire to.<br />
<br />
I highly recommend you use 2 different colours or styles of wire for this. Keep the left wire one colour or style and the right wire another. In my case I used a network cable for the wire so the left was solid with the right using white striped.<br />
<br />
Crimp the other end of the wire then insert into a 2 way housing.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Transistor</b><br />
<br />
This is the trickiest bit of wiring you have to do, its tricky as solder is fairly pointless and its fiddly.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzeM9jcJ_QV-4i0oFuGtQYyP4RkK930xa1U9aZ1wMMUAYHwrKnwCJjq2H9Nm2pztY4pEF9XRoyJN6rSDpXiLY23IAg_fRwasKCtX9Uln-u3UZaKsBW8x4dv08AoYgCS3gm7sidXW7eXZnu/s1600/crimp.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzeM9jcJ_QV-4i0oFuGtQYyP4RkK930xa1U9aZ1wMMUAYHwrKnwCJjq2H9Nm2pztY4pEF9XRoyJN6rSDpXiLY23IAg_fRwasKCtX9Uln-u3UZaKsBW8x4dv08AoYgCS3gm7sidXW7eXZnu/s1600/crimp.png" /></a></div>Remove a crimp (0.1 inch) from the reel then cut across the red line marked above.<br />
<br />
Now insert one of the transistor legs into the right side (the side with the longer wings). Using the same pliers you used for the standard crimps close the wings tightly around the wire (so it doesn't move).<br />
<br />
Do the same with the wire on the left side (this holds easier).<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtipPn5Hj8oW0jOOsS9exSQX2UXdVcAHY_AgdGq3PMM-Bu40ko2SeBrdrNhVhZSjzjAOZi1-VmoRJJbxdwCyjXqGBOyk5oBIZ8m1Rx2qJDscsqxU1xvPRzjssdeTiHot01fw25p1KHj1Li/s1600/crimp2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtipPn5Hj8oW0jOOsS9exSQX2UXdVcAHY_AgdGq3PMM-Bu40ko2SeBrdrNhVhZSjzjAOZi1-VmoRJJbxdwCyjXqGBOyk5oBIZ8m1Rx2qJDscsqxU1xvPRzjssdeTiHot01fw25p1KHj1Li/s1600/crimp2.png" /></a></div>The above image shows roughly what it would look like (well when its not been crimped), the blue wire going to the electronics board and the green wire doing to the transistor.<br />
<br />
Slide over some heatshrink tubing and shrink (the air vents on a soldering iron work nicely) to add an extra layer of support (and a little safer).<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Thermistor</b><br />
<br />
As its a small single (note I wrapped the rest of the wire in kapton tape) wire I merely soldered it to a multicore wire, added heatshrink tubing and shrank it. I then crimped the other 2 ends and inserted it into a 2 way housing.<br />
<br />
I'm not 100% sure this is the correct way to wire and join the thermistor so stay on the side of caution if you choose to copy me on this one.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>JoeDaStuddhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14851083350058257771noreply@blogger.com1